The 2006 Roaix Les Crottes is nearly as good as its younger sibling. This Pinot Noir-like effort displays notes of forest floor, black cherries, and currants, a smoky herbaceousness, and a balanced, restrained, attractive richness. It, too, should drink nicely for 3-4 years. One of the reference points of Gigondas as well as one of the model winemaking estates in the southern Rhone that of Yves Gras, his beloved Domaine Santa Duc. He also produces some negociant wines, which are marketed under the Santa Duc Selections moniker. Under the Domaine Santa Duc label, Gras produces one of the best buys in Cotes du Rhone, his Les Quatres Terres. Traditionally, there have been two cuvees of Gigondas produced at Domaine Santa Duc, the Cuvee Tradition and Les Hautes Garrigues (which is made in only the top vintages). However, in 2007, a new, 100% Grenache, 4,000-bottle cuvee has been produced. All three of these Gigondas are exhilarating wines of superb quality. They set reference points for what Gigondas can be. Only Louis Barroul at St.-Cosme achieves the same quality.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083