The 1983 Vintage Port, part of this issue's vertical, is friendly, lush and sweet, although there is still plenty of pop on the finish. Balanced and serious, its structure should allow this to continue to evolve and acquire more complexity. I doubt that it will ever be as fully rewarding as the 1970 in this vertical, but it is pretty good nonetheless, with an overachiever feel.

Almeida refers to this vintage as playing Mozart compared to the 1994’s Beethoven and 2000’s Bach. At 20 years of age, it seems pretty much mature, with hints of coffee and maple syrup adding complexity to plum and cherry fruit. Drink now–2015.——W.E.(10/1/2004)—— 91