The 1994 Vintage Port has a little extra Tinta Barroca this year, so I'm told. It helps produce a wine with modest concentration, but expressive fruit and plenty of power. Emphasizing its finesse, this grew on me as it aired, the big finish delivering plenty of flavor. The grip on the finish is impressive and that may be its best feature. It lingers nicely.

Beginning to show some development, the 1994 starts with hints of mint and maple syrup, blended with sturdier notes of tar, molasses and prunes. Supple and powerful on the finish; drink now or hold another 10-plus years.——W.E.(10/1/2004)—— 91