On the nose, the 2009 Shiraz Viognier stands out from the lineup (2006, 2013, 2015, 2019 and 2021). It has the most authentic roast beef crust smell outside of actual roast beef crust that I want to eat it. In the mouth, the fruit is bright and pure in its distinctly savory way, and the clarity of tannic structure is a thing to behold. This is totally in line with Clonakilla's clear house style. 2009 was a very good year in Canberra—posited as one of the best red vintages ever. It's up to you what you think of that statement, but the wine is certainly distinct, and at 13 years old today, it is youthful as anything. A warm summer gave many days in the high thirties, but the continentality of the Murrumbateman area held the vines in good stead as cool nighttimes allowed the vines crucial rest periods to preserve natural acidity. This 2009 was made with a 5% Viognier inclusion and 22% whole bunches. This is still evolving, still primary, and in Tim Kirk's descriptive prose: "a warm-hearted, black diamond of a wine." Apt.