I retasted the just-released 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon 25th Anniversary and it’s even better than it was last year. A seriously profound, rich, concentrated red fashioned from 30-year old vines, and aged in 100% new oak, it boasts sumptuous black currant liqueur-like characteristics intermingled with notions of spice box, sweet oak, licorice, and incense. Extremely full-bodied with tremendous stuffing, a broad mid-palate, and a fabulously long finish, it should age beautifully for a minimum of 20-25 years. The good news is there are 700 cases. Tel. (707) 963-5711; Fax (707) 963-7518

This is certainly a good wine, ripe and delicious in cherry, black currant and chocolate flavors, with rich, intricate tannins and a long, rich finish. It’s luscious, but very soft, and doesn’t seem likely to age.——S.H.(12/31/2005)—— 87