Harvested between 12.5% and 12.8% natural potential alcohol, the ruby-colored 1998 Monthelie Les Duresses (it was to be bottled immediately after my visit) reveals a sweet, red cherry filled nose. "With this terroir, it is important not to extract too much, or else you get rustic tannins. I go for elegance and delicacy," announced Lafon. Sure enough, this medium-bodied wine is silky-textured and displays an appealingly soft finish. Loads of wild red berry fruit can be found in its fresh, juicy personality. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Importer: Ex Cellars, Solvang, CA; tel (805) 686-9153.