The 2009 Dolcetto d’Alba Vigna del Mandorlo offers an intriguing combination of dark, varietal fruit along with the textural beauty that is the hallmark of the house style. Hints of licorice, tar and leather add complexity as the wine opens up in the glass. The tannins remain rather firm, making this an excellent choice for the dinner table. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Cogno is one of Piedmont’s undiscovered jewels. From top to bottom, the wines are consistently excellent to outstanding. In recent years, the estate has made great strides with their Baroli, but readers should not look past the entry-level wines, as they merit just as much attention. Readers will have to wait until 2011 for the 2006 Barolo Bricco Pernice and 2005 Barolo Vigna Elena. In the meantime, there is no shortage of fine bottles from this small, artisan grower. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Vigna del Mandorlo Dolcetto d’Alba opens with bright freshness and loads of cherry, blueberry, raspberry and toasted almond. The wine shows freshness that is balanced by smooth, velvety tannins. ——M.L.(5/1/2011)—— 87