The 2012 Dolcetto d’Alba Mandorlo is a fabulous little red despite its no-fuss presentation. It offers so much in so little time. Fresh fruit, blackberry, spice and mocha all stand to attention. This is one of the nicest Dolcettos I tasted. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2015. A visit to the cellars of Elvio Cogno is always a fascinating learning experience. I had my first taste of a beautifully fresh and fragrant white wine made with the Nascetta grape here a few years ago. The variety was new to many of us then, but thanks to vintner Valter Fissore and his wife Nadia Cogno it is strongly identified with the territory today. More recently, the couple started to produce limited cases of Barbera d’Alba made from pre-phylloxera vines (most more than a century old). That they were able to tap into that ancient genetic patrimony in this well-trodden part of Italy is something of a small miracle. They are also credited with putting the little-known Novello township on the Barolo map. Importer: Imported by Elvio Cogno, Suasalito, CA; tel. (917) 699-2647

The floral and candied berry aromas take on cherry jam and spice flavors in this exuberant red, which is tannic and dense, with a touch of alcohol in the balance. Drink now through 2016. 1,500 cases made.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Dolcetto d'Alba Select to Add