The 2010 Barbaresco Valeirano shows floral notes of rose petal and pressed violets that make for a slow-moving aromatic preamble that is soon followed by defined layers of leather, spice, pipe tobacco, tar and licorice. The feminine qualities of the bouquet make for a fitting contrast against the masculine determination of the mouthfeel. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023. There’s a quiet revolution underway in Rombone, at the cascina farmhouse in Treiso now owned by Annalisa Nada and her husband Elvio. Following the passing of her father in 2012, this fourth-generation vintner – a young lady with fierce determination – has taken over the nine-hectare vineyard and winery founded by her great-grandfather in 1919. She says the history of her family vineyard has come full circle: “My husband reminds me of my grandfather because his head and his heart are always in the vineyard. Elvio has the same calloused hands and I can smell the sulfur on his skin.” I’m curious to watch the direction she takes, but so far the results look promising. Importer: Vignaioli Selection, New York, NY; tel. (216) 863-03095