The muscular, broodingly backward 1996 Terreus Pago de Cueva Baja exhibits a saturated dark purple color, as well as a tight but promising nose of minerals, black raspberries, and blackberries. Spicy new oak makes an appearance in this dense, full-bodied, nearly impenetrable wine. It requires 4-6 years of cellaring, and should last for two decades. Everything appears to be well-balanced enough to present fascinating potential for the future. A Christopher Cannan Selection, imported by Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620

This flashy red pushes all the buttons: deep color, strong toast and vanilla aromas from new oak, sweet velvety fruit flavors and a luscious texture, with enough acidity to keep it refreshing on the finish. It's a beautiful wine, though it doesn't have much to do with Spain. Drink now through 2006. -TM