Digging back into the library, André Perret pulled out a bottle of the 2011 Saint Joseph les Grisieres—from an old-vine parcel just south of the village—to satisfy my request for a decade-old example. Looking at his harvest diary, he described it as an early year with healthy grapes—but maybe a few too many of them. At just 13% alcohol on the label, it was bricking at the rim, and the nose showed developed notes of leather, dried cherries and saucisson sec. On the medium-bodied palate, however, the wine remains brilliantly silky, supple and long on the finish. Drink any remaining bottles over the next few years.