The 2007 Roussanne is medium straw-colored with a hint of gold. Aromas of acacia flowers, honey, citrus, and a hint of tropical notes lead to an intense, racy, lively wine that may well evolve for a few years. Drink this lengthy effort through 2014 if not longer. Doyenne is the sister label of DeLille Cellars and is used for Rhone varieties. www.delillecellars.com

Roussanne, with barely seven years history in Washington, is making good headway, thanks to efforts such as this. It seems to capture the floral and citrus complexity of the best Viogniers, while adding in richer layers of fruit through a pleasingly honeyed middle. Lively and lingering, it has the balance and depth to improve in bottle over the next four or five years.——P.G.(12/31/2008)—— 91