The 1999 Merlot is medium to dark ruby-colored and offers aromas reminiscent of chocolate-covered cherries. Medium to full-bodied, intense, and concentrated, it offers blackberries, sweet dark cherries, and jammy, mocha-like flavors in its deep, powerful core of fruit as well as throughout its long, plush finish. This outstanding wine was crafted by Gordy Hill, yet starting with the 2001 vintage, Rusty "Berle" Figgins (of Glen Fiona fame) will be taking over winemaking duties with the assistance of Jed Steele, who will be acting as a consultant. Projected maturity: 2004-2014.Tel. (206) 488-1133

Also recommended, but no tasting note given. Part of the Ste. Michelle family, Walla Walla-based Northstar has been focused for two decades on showcasing Merlot. “There’s still not a lot of top-quality Merlot to play with,” notes winemaker David Merfeld apropos options to source this grape from Walla Walla vineyards other than his estate. That the fashion for Cabernet Sauvignon and Rhone varieties to which this shortage testifies shortchanges Merlot’s Washington potential, is clearly a matter of faith at Ste. Michelle, which has in recent years planted more, including on Northstar’s home property, whose first vines went in just over a decade ago at the time that their imposing production facilities were being built. “I’m proud to be known as Mr. Merlot,” quips Merfeld – a protegee of Jed Steele, whose vision (along with that of Alan Shoup) was behind the origination of Northstar – “and I’m glad we stayed the course” even when this grape’s sheer ubiquity threatened to undermine the project of producing world class wine from it. Fruit sources for Northstar remain diverse, and their range of bottlings has expanded to include many non-Merlots. Active fermentation here is generally not longer than a week, and may finish in barrel depending on the lot. I had the opportunity to barrel-taste several components from the extremely late-harvested 2011 season, finding sap and energetic promise, though in some instances also the seeds of potential sweet-tart bifurcation. Tel. (509) 525-6100

Northstar has ramped up production to 2,900 cases, on its way to 15,000 once the new winery (being built in Walla Walla) is operational. Here is flat-out killer fruit, stacked with all the flavors of the rainbow, that finds the silky sweet spot on the palate and goes for a long, long ride. This winery is on a roll. Editors’ Choice. ——P.G.(9/1/2002)—— 94