From vineyards in Corgoloin, the Jayer-Gilles 2005 Cote de Nuits-Villages leads with smoke-inflected black currant and black raspberry. Super-concentrated in its black fruits and positively sizzling in the mouth, this bright, vivacious Pinot displays rapier length, along the way drawing blood, and a note of bone meal as well. This really reverberates and the sheer concentration of material (from here on, in fact, in the Jayer-Gilles line-up) puts the oak in its place as stage hand rather than actor. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083.