The structured (it’s a mountain vineyard) 2004 Merlot Bancroft Ranch possesses a dark ruby/purple color and additional notes of cherries, plums, minerals and underbrush, high tannin, and impressive concentration as well as length. It should be cellared for several years, and enjoyed over the following 10-15 years. Previously recommended: 2005 Chardonnay Sbragia Limited Release (93), 2005 Chardonnay Private Reserve (93), 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve (92).Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-1735

The vineyard is on Howell Mountain. It’s an awkward wine, with lots to like, but some problems. On the plus side is enormous cassis, cherry and chocolate fruit flavor and rich, fine tannins, and the 100% new oak seems proper given the wine’s volume. But there’s too much sugary sweetness in the finish, almost like a dessert wine.——S.H.(5/1/2008)—— 85