I would be remiss in not writing a glowing testimony about the 2001 Nightingale, the botrytised, Sauternes look-alike made from 65% Semillon and 35% Sauvignon Blanc. This heady concoction of buttery pineapple, apricot jam, coconut, and lychee is presented in an unctuously textured, moderately sweet, impeccably pure, full-bodied style. It should drink well for 10-15 years. Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-1735

Very good as usual for this pioneering botrytized wine. It has lush and jammy apricot and vanilla flavors wrapped in a gooey texture. It’s so sweet and tasty, you almost find yourself wishing it were a little more concentrated, in which case it would be a knockout.——S.H.(4/1/2004)—— 89