The 2007 Syrah Grand Estates exhibits a nose of smoke, plum, lavender, and blueberry. Straightforward on the palate with decent fruit and moderate length, it is a solid effort but not one of the stars of the collection. Columbia Crest, part of the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, is Washington’s largest winery. It produces mammoth amounts of wine (2,000,000+ cases) at a remarkably high level of quality. A visit to the cellars reveals brilliant organization, high morale, and a sense of personal involvement by the staff that undoubtedly adds value to the finished wine.Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

This is a changed wine from previous vintages, now emphasizing the berry flavors of the fruit and not shying away from some chewy tannins. It seems more honest and direct, without the wash of vanilla and jam, and more food-friendly as well, with the stuffing to take on a flank or hanger steak. ——P.G.(12/31/2010)—— 87