Up there with the best vintages of this cuvee to date, and slightly more refined than the Signature Syrah, the 2010 Doyenne Syrah Grand Ciel Vineyard is a thrilling effort that boasts first-rate aromatics, superb concentration and an understated elegance that comes out with air. Made from 100% Grand Ciel Vineyard Syrah and aged in 30% new French oak, it delivers notions of smoked raspberries, bacon fat, crushed stone minerality, pepper and violets along with a medium to full-bodied, seamless and perfectly proportioned palate. No complaints from me, and despite the layers of fruit and polish, it possesses a decidedly Old World feel. It can be enjoyed now or cellared for a decade. Drink now-2025. Making their wines in a Woodinville facility and pulling grapes from a number of eastern Washington AVAs, DeLille Cellars was founded in the early nineties and is a reference point estate. The wines are made by Chris Upchurch, with help from Jason Gorski and Louis Skinner in the cellar. They’ve split up the brand into two different labels: Doyenne for all Rhone-styled blends, and Chaleur Estate for their Bordeaux blends and straight Cabernet Sauvignon releases. Both 2010 and 2011 are incredibly strong here, and with regards to the Doyenne releases, represent some of the best wines I’ve tasted from them. Tel. (425) 489-0544; www.delillecellars.com