The dark ruby-colored 1998 Barolo is a tough-textured, backward effort showing a certain austerity along with notes of minerals, earth, pepper, and truffles. Red fruit notes emerge as the wine sits in the glass, but this is a decidedly stern, backward, atypical 1998. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2018. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

This wine is for lovers of an older style of Barolo. It has cherry and leather aromas, a touch of mint and white chocolate. On the palate, though, there is some leaness and astringency that is certainly classic and even elegant, but might not appeal to everyone. It should age, however, and the astringency should soften. ——R.V.(11/15/2002)—— 87