This is a fascinating old vintage that is showing surprisingly well today. The 1995 Fontalloro was born in what was an irregular and difficult vintage. But time has healed any inconsistencies and the wine is showing spectacular tertiary aromas now. Smoke, tar, licorice and dried berry fruit emerge from the glass. The wine is a pure expression of Sangiovese and you get a great sense of the grape's aging potential here. Silky, smooth tannins give the wine an elegant and long-lasting character.

The elegant 1995 Fontalloro exhibits a soft, berry, coffee, and leather-scented bouquet, medium body, and sweet, chewy fruit. It should be consumed over the next 5-6 years. Importer: Dominic Nocerino, Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (516) 467-5907

A 100% Sangiovese that goes beyond Chianti Classico and then surpasses most of the Brunellos currently on the market. Some might find it expensive, but the value quotient is phenomenal given the quality. With this stunning Super Tuscan it is all about the vineyard, which lies on the southern border of the Chianti Classico region.——W.E.(11/15/1999)—— 93