The 2009 Fontalloro is 100% Sangiovese from three vineyards; Fontalloro in Chianti Classico and Casalino and Arcidossino, both in the Chianti Colli Senesi appellation. Here too, the vineyards are over 50 years old. Sweet red cherries, tobacco, flowers and spices meld together beautifully in this deep, resonant Fontalloro. This is a more immediate, round style than the Rancia. Ripe, silky tannins frame the long, polished finish. Today the Fontalloro isn’t as expressive as the Rancia, but it generally has a shorter drinking window. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Just when I thought I was familiar with the wines of Felsina, the estate comes through with one of the very best sets of new releases I have ever tasted. From top to bottom, these are marvelous wines that deserve serious attention. Proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin has stepped down from some of his day-to-day duties, but the wines are as good as they have ever been. Felsina fans might also enjoy the Rancia vertical published in Issue 201 from the one and only complete Rancia tasting ever staged. Various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Wine Warehouse, City of Commerce, CA; tel. (323) 724-1700; Maverick Wine Company, Binseville, IL; tel. (630) 860-4600; Prestige Wine Cellar, Dallas, TX; tel. (214) 823-9272; DeLuca Liquor & Wine Nevada Wine Agents, North Las Vegas, NV; tel. (702) 669-3916; Baroness Wine Distributors, Denver, CO; tel. (303)934-1300; Transatlantic/Southern Wine & Spirits, Miramar, FL; tel. (305) 625-4171; Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; tel. (410) 633-0400

Soft and juicy with chocolate and berry character and hints of currants. Full body, with delicate velvety tannins and an intense finish. Very approachable but will be much better in years to come.

This red combines black cherry, black currant, tar and spice notes that move curtly across the palate. The vivid structure needs time to integrate. Shows fine length, with a dry impression. Sangiovese. Best from 2015 through 2026. 40,000 cases made. –BS

(100% sangiovese): Bright red. Captivating aromas of red cherry, raspberry, licorice and sweet spices. Juicy and tightly wound but essentially pliant, with smooth red fruit and licorice flavors complicated by aromatic fresh herbs. Finishes with supple but mouthcoating tannins. Needs time.