The 1990 Barolo is compact and straightforward, both lighter and without the flavor depth or dimension of Marchesi di Barolo's other 1990s and 1989s. The late Sheldon Wasserman probably stated it best in his comprehensive book on the red wines of Italy when he wrote, "Marchesi di Barolo owns 100 acres of vineyards, including some of the best sites in Barolo, a fact unfortunately not evident in their wines." This longtime underachiever has finally begun to turn out rich, complex wines. Importer: Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY; tel. (516) 802-4700.