The 2013 Seta (Semillon / Sauvignon Blanc), an identical blend with slightly less new oak, reminds me of an Haut-Brion Blanc. Caramelized citrus, white currant, quince and a touch of marmalade are all present in this lovely, rich, surprisingly full-bodied and intense dry white. Both of these wines would be a perfect foil for a rich fish dish, such as grilled salmon, or lobster.

Made from 57% Sémillon, the rest Sauvignon Blanc, this proprietary, estate wine is 100% barrel-fermented and built to age, a studious take on sultry oak and viscosity. Golden Delicious apple highlights the taste experience, reaching rich, concentrated proportion, before the wine finds its balance on the finish. Drink now through 2020.