The 2005 Il Drappo (Nero d’Avola) presents the gamut of aromas and flavors that are typical of this quirky, indigenous variety. Sweet, open aromatics lead to candied red fruits, smoke, earthiness and mint. The wine possesses notable inner perfume in a generous, soft-textured style, with pretty notes of sweetness that linger on the delicate finish. Despite the wine’s medium-bodied personality, there is also plenty of punch in the bold fruit flavors. This gorgeous wine should drink beautifully over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017. I can’t think of too many properties in Sicily, or Italy, for that matter, that turn out such a large number of outstanding wines. The family-run Benanti winery is located on the slopes of Mount Etna. These volcanic soils are the source for most of the grapes, although some of the Nero d’Avola comes from Pachino while the Zibibbo is grown on the island of Pantelleria. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these unique wines. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

Il Drappo is a ripe, smokey and chewy expression of Nero d’Avola with plump fruit notes backed by blackberry and cherry nuances. The mouthfeel is rich, velvety and very soft. Pair this wine with spicy pork with barbecue sauce.——M.L.(7/1/2011)—— 90