The 2006 Il Drappo (Nero d’Avola) emerges from the glass with intensely perfumed red fruit, earthiness, licorice, tobacco and anise. Some of the more rustic qualities of Nero d’Avola come through in the wine, but there is more than enough intensity and roundness in the fruit to provide balance. This isn’t the most refined wine in the Benanti lineup, but it will be more than delicious with hearty fare. The length, refinement of the tannins and sense of harmony are all first-rate. Il Drappo is made from vineyards in Pachino, in the southeast of Sicily, considered one of the best spots on the island for Nero d’Avola. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Lamoremio that is already a touch forward and probably not built for the long haul. Still, it should drink beautifully for at least a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Benanti is a reference-point producer for beautiful wines from the Etna and Pachino, two of Sicily’s most privileged spots. It’s pretty hard to go wrong with any of these new releases. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524