The fast-talking, super-enthusiastic Jim Clendenen is fashioning some of the most dazzling wines in California. The upcoming and current releases of Pinot Noir from Au Bon Climat are equally stunning in terms of their complexity and richness. The 1990 Pinot Noir-La Bauge au-Dessus-Bien Nacido, along with Sanford's 1990 Pinot Noir from the Sanford and Benedict Vineyard, ranks as one of the two greatest American Pinot Noirs I have tasted. Like the Sanford single vineyard Pinot, it could blow away ninety percent of the red burgundies that sell for twice the price. The 1990 La Bauge au-Dessus enjoys a more saturated color than the 1991, as well as a terrific nose of ripe plums, smoke, meats, and flowers. There is staggering concentration, impeccable delineation and focus, and a ripe, heady, super-concentrated finish. The tannins are soft enough to enjoy this smashingly intense Pinot Noir now, but it promises to last for 6-10 years.