A Cotes du Rhone clone, the value-priced, delicious 2006 Cotes de Tablas is a juicy, earthy effort made primarily from Grenache with small amounts of Syrah, Mourvedre, and Counoise included in the blend. It offers classic black cherry, licorice, lavender, pepper, and spice notes in a medium-bodied, concentrated, silky-textured style. Enjoy it over the next 4-5 years. This Paso Robles outpost is owned by two Francophiles, Frenchman Francois Perrin (one of the owners of the Rhone Valley's Chateau Beaucastel) and Robert Haas (founder of the import company Vineyard Brands, and a pioneer importer of estate-bottled French wines). Seeking out steep limestone ridges near the Pacific Ocean, Tablas Creek was a work in progress for its first four to five years, but it has come on like gang-busters in the 21st century. The 2007s are unquestionably their finest wines to date, but readers should not overlook the excellent 2006s.Tel. (805) 237-1231; Fax (805) 237-1314

A very engaging Rhone blend made for immediate enjoyment. Doesn’t try to hide its warm-climate terroir, with a soft texture framing jammy-sweet black raspberry, cherry, red currant, root beer and mocha flavors. Drink now. ——S.H.(2/1/2009)—— 87