Despite it size, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Meastro Raro shows remarkable finesse for the vintage. This is an especially brooding Maestro Raro loaded with black cherries, grilled herbs and earthiness. Today it comes across powerful yet generous and it is sure to improve with further bottle age. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. There is not too much more I can say about the wines of Felsina and proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin, except that they are reference point wines for anyone who wants to discover the essence of contemporary Sangiovese from Chianti Classico. This is a compelling set of new releases from Mazzocolin and long-time consulting oenologist Franco Bernabei, one of the giants of modern Tuscan oenology. Even better, the wines remain very fairly priced. I was amused when another producer complained to me recently about Felsina’s prices. They were far too low, he insisted. I also tasted the wines of Felsina’s second property Castello di Farnatella. The wines are competently made, but lack the distinctiveness of the Felsina wines.Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404