The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Maestro Raro rounds out Felsina’s lineup in this important vintage. A perfumed wine, it reveals layers of flavors that continue to open as the wine sits in the glass. Sweet tobacco, flowers, minerals, menthol, cherries and plums all flow from this structured, beautifully balanced expression of Cabernet Sauvignon from Chianti Classico. The big, building tannins suggest additional cellaring will be beneficial. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. There is not too much more I can say about the wines of Felsina and proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin, except that they are reference point wines for anyone who wants to discover the essence of contemporary Sangiovese from Chianti Classico. This is a compelling set of new releases from Mazzocolin and long-time consulting oenologist Franco Bernabei, one of the giants of modern Tuscan oenology. Even better, the wines remain very fairly priced. I was amused when another producer complained to me recently about Felsina’s prices. They were far too low, he insisted. I also tasted the wines of Felsina’s second property Castello di Farnatella. The wines are competently made, but lack the distinctiveness of the Felsina wines.Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404