A sleeper selection, the 2011 Cotes du Rhone is a tank-aged blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre. A delicious, fruity, soft, ripe effort that is already in bottle, it has nearly the weight of the Chateauneuf du Pape, which is not surprising given the location of the vineyard. This branch of the Usseglio family left their home in Italy following the Great Depression in 1929 to make a new start producing wine in southern France. This estate has been on “fire” qualitatively since 1998. The cellars of brothers Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio, who own approximately 60 acres of vines, are located adjacent to the ruins of a pope’s palace on the northeastern side of the village. In top vintages, such as 2010, 2009 and 2007, three Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees are produced. These include a traditional cuvee, the old vine, tank- and foudre-aged Mon Aieul and the more modern-styled Reserve des Deux Freres. Lirac is on the acquisition list of many Chateauneuf du Pape proprietors for a number of reasons: (1) they live close by; (2)the terroir is not dissimilar from that of Chateauneuf du Pape; and (3) the land is relatively cheap. The 2010 Chateauneuf du Papes are superb. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173