(Not yet released)The caramel-scented 1998 Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Vendange Tardive offers candied orange zests, a strong minerality, and jammy (almost syrupy) yellow fruit flavors. Even though this is a thick, oily-textured wine, it is also racy because of its tangy underlying acidity. Medium-to-full-bodied and harmonious, it is still in a tight, youthful state. Projected maturity: 2004-2015. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.