Alain Voge, who has made a remarkable recovery from a liver transplant, produced a sensationally rich, concentrated blockbuster. This 1998's saturated black/purple color is followed by abundant earthy, blackberry, prune, and licorice aromas and flavors. Massive and fat, with an unctuous texture, sweet tannin, and a powerful, symmetrical finish, this is one of the stars of the appellation. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2016. Importer: New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625

Very intense, with a dried fruit, spice, cocoa, leather and pie-crust-dough nose. No tasters doubted the wine’s ripe tart-sweet fruit complexity, but an earthy, musty note bothered some. Round and layered, with fine structure, this finishes long and balanced with coffee and leather notes. Better in 2–3 years. ——W.E.(11/1/2001)—— 93