I absolutely loved both of these Cornas from Alain Voge. Starting out with their old vine cuvee, the 2003 Cornas Vieilles Vignes is evolving nicely with perfumed, if not pretty (which is surprising for Cornas), aromas of blackberry and kirsch-styled fruit, licorice, roasted meats and tinges of black olive. This leads to a medium to full-bodied Cornas that has beautiful mid-palate concentration, notable freshness and definition, and a terrific finish that highlights still present and chewy tannin. Drink it anytime over the coming 7-8 years.

Open-knit and evolved is the 2003 Cornas Vieilles Vignes. Scents of plums, licorice, and sweet cassis and blackberries soar from the glass and saturate the palate. Full-bodied, broad, and expansive yet complex and evolved, it can be drunk now or cellared for 10-12 years. Importer: New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 448-9463