Now at 30 years old (or young), the 1986 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, opened by proprietor Olivier Bernard, demonstrated how white Bordeaux can age. Lucid straw in color, it had a powerful bouquet with dried honey, beeswax and oyster shell. For some reason, a fine "Bonneau du Martray" came into my head, even though we are talking about completely different grape varieties here. The palate is well defined with good weight and is as fresh as a daisy. It has developed a slightly waxy texture, a little resinous in style towards the finish with a swish of sour lemon. Absolutely delicious from start to finish, well-preserved bottles will easily give another 20 years of pleasure. Tasted July 2016.

The 1986 is pale straw in color, with a decidedly oaky, ungenerous bouquet. It is steely, tightly knit, extremely austere, and difficult to appreciate or assess. If it develops more concentration and charm it could merit a higher score, but my notes have been consistent since I first tasted it from barrel. Anticipated maturity: Now-2000. Last tasted, 3/90.