Lafon says the dark-colored Volnay Champans reminds him of the 1990. Its brooding nose exhibits blackberry and cassis fruit. On the palate its masculine, big, broad-shouldered, and muscular full body is densely packed with black cherries, blueberries, stones, and blackberries. Even though it is from the same village as the previous wine, it is hard to imagine two Burgundies so dissimilar. This is a huge and expansive wine. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2007. Dominique Lafon harvested his reds at 40 hectoliters/ hectare, his highest yields since the 1990 vintage. Lafon described 1996 as "the year of the fruit", commenting on how pure it was, with strong, solid skins that resulted in "the juice having trouble flowing." The grapes came in at 13% potential natural alcohol, and Lafon chaptalised them in order to extend the length of the fermentations - they are presently at 13.1 or 13.2% alcohol (in contrast, the '97s were harvested at 13.5% potential natural alcohol and were not chaptalised). Malo-lactic fermentations were slow, long-lasting, and did not finish until August, 1997. Lafon does not filter his reds and had no intention of fining them. Lafon's 1996s are the finest red wines I have tasted from this first-rate and highly reliable estate. Importer: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel (617) 731-6644.