The 2005 Volnay Champans was another wine part of which Lafon racked to tank so as to encourage completion of malo, after which that portion went back to barrel in early January. Two thirds of his half a hectare in Champans is planted with 85 year-old vines. Typically for this site, the nose is generous with mushroom and forest floor, but there is also a wealth of flowers and of blackberry and strawberry fruit, which follow onto the palate in a briskly-concentrated form. Beef and mushroom stock, wet stone, moss, and wood smoke anchor the lower-range of this complex Volnay, wine beautifully 2005 in its combination of freshness of fruit yet darkly-hued, walk-in-the-forest personality. I would plan on 7-10 years in the cellar. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70; A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300; Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040