The 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Hauts Doix (from a small site that wraps around one third of Les Amoureuses) offers iris, musky narcissus florality, vanilla, raspberry and rhubarb in the nose, a silky palate with hints of smoke and game, and a juicy, sappy, bright, finish. Serge Groffier says he doesn’t think this site can take more than a third of new wood, which has certainly faded into the background. A few years will tell what sort of additional complexity this will add (the 2002 is simply sensational today), but its combination of textural richness, clarity and kinetic vibrancy is already impressive. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.