High-toned kirsch and suggestions of mushrooms and well-hung game in the nose of the Groffier 2006 Chambolle-Musigny Les Hauts Doix lead to a rather delicate, brightly red-fruited palate with intriguing spicy and fungal notes. This belies its relatively light color and body with an emphatic and persistent, pungently spicy and sweetly-ripe finish. I suspect it will be best enjoyed over the next half dozen years. Serge Groffier points out some similarity to the 2001, which is au point now. The 2006 Groffier collection – from fruit picked beginning September 23, and in only four days – was noticeably lower in alcohol than a number of recent predecessors, and was diminished by one-third vis-a-vis 2005, after botrytis- and hail-affected berries had been culled. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93, also imported by Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; sales@awiwine.com