The late-released 2004 Mirto (the 2006 vintage was reviewed favorably one year ago) is 100% Tempranillo sourced from 70+-year-old vines that went through malolactic fermentation in barrel followed by 28 months on its lees in new French oak before bottling without filtration. It offers up a classy bouquet of sandalwood, exotic spices, incense, a hint of balsamic, lavender, and blackberry. Still youthful and structured on the palate with firm natural acidity (2004 was a great vintage), this plush, succulent beautifully proportioned, pleasure-bent Rioja will evolve for another 5-6 years and drink nicely through 2024+. Ramon Bilbao was founded in 1924 and currently produces 300,000 cases of Rioja in a range of styles. Importer: W.J. Deutsch & Sons; www.wjdeutsch.com

A powerful dose of new oak adds vanilla and toast, plus mouthfilling tannins, but it's absorbed by ripe fruit flavors of blackberry and blueberry that coat the palate, and balanced by fresh acidity. A modern style, with concentration and character. Drink now through 2014. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 1,835 cases made.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add

Color and size are readily apparent but gaps appear between the layers. For starters, the nose doesn’t have the purity and density that it could; and the palate also shows some weakness where structure and quality of fruit meet. Otherwise, it’s a ripe and modern red wine with some lushness and depth.——M.S.(9/1/2007)—— 87