From a parcel with a southeast exposure, the 2002 Chablis Vaillons (domaine) sports a deep nose of flint-laden minerals and ripe, rich yellow fruits. Lush, broad, and well-focused, this excellent wine slathers the palate with plush layers of pears, white peaches, and slate. In addition, it reveals a long, satisfyingly flavorful and suave finish. Projected maturity: now-2011. While Bernard Hervet, who oversees both Bouchard and William Fevre, prefers the 2000 vintage in Chablis “for its minerality and austerity,” your author believes 2002 is the finest set of wines to have been produced at this estate/negociant firm in many years. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel (212) 888-7575