A 2007 Chevalier-Montrachet of which Philippe Colin can boast a whopping five barrels smells sweetly of ripe pear, honeysuckle, and nutmeg. Rich and silken-textured on the palate, yet preserving the same sense of energy and fresh-fruit brightness that made his Demoiselles so convincing, this sets up a finishing oscillation of pit fruits, citrus, and minerals that will lift your spirits even as it seems to eventually waft away. This in no way betrays its (for the vintage) relatively high 13.7% alcohol, on the contrary. I would anticipate 8-10 years of fascination and exhilaration from this. Since splitting the family inheritance with his brother Bruno in 2004, Philippe Colin has taken on supplemental grape contracts, but only where he is able to personally work the vines and call the shots at harvest. In 2007, he picked his entire acreage in one week, beginning September 4, and lightly chaptalized his wines to levels generally just on either side of 13%. Imported by Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185; Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524