The 2006 Rosso di Montalcino reveals a core of super-ripe, rich fruit framed by firm tannins that need another year or two to soften. Sweet floral and spice notes give the wine a pretty sense of lift on the finish. Many estates market their Rosso as a baby Brunello, but this is one case where that description actually fits the bill. I have tasted 20+ year-old vintages of this wine that have held up beautifully, and while I am not sure the wine improves markedly with cellaring, it does age exceptionally well. This is the best value in Sangiovese from Montalcino today, and it is not to be missed. The 2006 Rosso is a bit of a throwback stylistically, as a smaller percentage of fruit was de-stemmed than the 2007, a decision that resulted in a firmer style of wine. It looks like the estate is moving in another direction with its Rosso (see the 2007), which I fully appreciate, even if I believe the Sangiovese here is so noble it is a pity to dumb it down. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. I was completely blown away by the wines I tasted from Il Poggione this year. Readers who want to experience first-class Sangiovese from Montalcino won’t want to miss these exceptional wines. Winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci and his team have done an exceptional job for which they deserve all the praise in the world. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900