The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Artemis, which is not an estate wine, but a regional Napa blend, includes a small amount of Petit Verdot and Merlot. The fully mature 2007 exhibits a dark plum/ruby color, medium body and notes of Chinese black tea, licorice, herbs, mocha and black currants. This is a delicious, restrained, elegant Cabernet to drink over the next 7-8 years. Dramatic improvements are clearly underway at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, which was sold to a consortium led by Tuscany’s Piero Antinori in 2007. Antinori brought in well-known consultant Renzo Cotarella to improve the quality and, hopefully, get this winery back to the lofty heights it achieved in the seventies and early eighties. They seem to be well on their way, which is good news for consumers. This is a large estate of 104 acres, all situated as one giant block of vineyards in the southern part of the Stags Leap appellation. The change in ownership and winemaking staff shows progressive improvement with each vintage starting with 2007. The 2009s look to be their best wines to date. As for the 2007 reds, normally four cuvees are produced, all based on Cabernet Sauvignon, including the Cask 23, which comes from the best lots from the Fay and S.L.V. estate vineyards after fermentations are completed. The most impressive Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ offerings made since the 1985 vintage are the three 2009s I was permitted to taste from barrel.Tel. (707) 944-2020; Fax (707) 257-7501

Here’s a Cab to put in the cellar. It’s big and rich and frankly sensational, just massive in blackberries, currants and sweet dark chocolate. The tannins are fierce, but very fine, and the overall balance is impeccable. Too astringent now, even with decanting, but should easily improve in the bottle throughout the next decade. ——S.H.(2/1/2011)—— 94