A dynamite value in dry, fragrant, tasty white wine is the 2004 Cricket Pitch White, a blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Semillon that was fermented and aged in stainless steel prior to bottling. Elegant aromas of lemons, limes, white peaches, and orange rinds emerge from this crisp, medium-bodied, well-made dry white. Consume it over the next year. Importer: Peter Click, Click Imports, Seattle, WA; tel. (800) 859-0689

A portion of this wine was fermented in barrel, and it shows, but what also shows is the high level of ripeness attained by at least some of the grapes. The aromas highlight exotic scents of honey and apricots, marked by traces of smoke and toast. It’s surprisingly full-bodied for an Australian blend of these two grape varieties, but could use a touch more length on the finish to really shine.——J.C.(3/1/2007)—— 86