The complex 1998 Chardonnay Cuvee Allier exhibits an overlay of pain grille, roasted nuts, buttered citrus, and a Chassagne-Montrachet-like smokiness. This medium-bodied Chardonnay, which enjoyed full malolactic fermentation, possesses a nicely-layered texture and good ripeness. As it sat in the glass, the oak became more subdued and the wine more elegant. This is an ideal candidate for a ringer in a blind tasting of white Burgundies or California Chardonnays costing three or four times as much. Drink it over the next year. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767