The 2015 Columbia Valley Merlot reveals an oaky bouquet of toasted coconut and vanilla pod in which notions of ripe black fruits play a decidedly secondary role. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, lavish and chewy, with the flavors—and, I suspect, tannins—imparted by new oak dominating any varietal character. This would be better described as an exercise in carpentry than winemaking.