There are nearly 10,000 cases of the stunning 2004 Petite Sirah Heritage Clone. A dense ruby/purple hue is accompanied by glorious aromas of creme de cassis, vanilla, incense, crushed rocks, blackberries, and smoke. It is a full-bodied, tannic, chewy, rich, pedal-to-the-metal effort with low acidity as well as ripe tannin. The latter two components will make it difficult to resist, but it should age well for 15-20 years. Tel. (510) 865-7007

On the off-dry side of the fence, this zaftig wine has gigantic flavors of blackberry jam, cassis-laced cola, raspberry tart and smoke. It’s hot in alcohol, but the heat expresses itself as a white peppery, nutmeggy spice that seasons the fruit. ——S.H.(11/15/2006)—— 87