Pethel’s 2006 Puligny-Montrachet exists because he had to contract for it in order to get access to fruit for a premier cru, and anyone who cannot locate or afford his wine from the latter will not walk away dissatisfied. This is a village wine of deep savor, with nutty, chalky, and saline dimensions; a rich texture; and a clear, pure finish. I suspect (despite the absence of any track record) that it will drink nicely for at least 4-5 years. After many years spent visiting Burgundy, North Carolina-born Blair Pethel became convinced of his calling as a vintner while working the harvest there in 1999 on a sabbatical from his career as a political journalist in Washington, DC. Five years later, he purchased his first vineyards and began Domaine Dublere. If his story sounds impossibly starry-eyed, a taste of what is in Pethel’s barrels will correct that impression. Working with small but prestigious holdings and selected suppliers of fruit from old vines, he is already achieving wines of startling finesse and clarity of flavor, in both white and red. Pethel harvested a week before the official ban de vendange and even then, he remarks, “I had to sort like a maniac. We had sixteen people on two sorting trays in 2006,” thanks to having friends who are self-proclaimed wine freaks inspired or crazy enough to volunteer. “My business plan is based on grand- and premier cru,” says Pethel without any tone of arrogance “so I have to build slowly.” Importer: Schneider’s of Capital Hill, Washington, DC tel. (202) 543 9300