The 2005 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda is a beautiful, graceful Barolo. It naturally doesn’t have the explosiveness of the 2006 or 2007, but it nevertheless impresses for its finessed fruit, expressive bouquet and well-integrated tannins. This mid-weight Vigna Rionda shows lovely palate presence, nuance and detail. Freshly cut flowers, sweet baking spices and small red fruits linger on the understated finish. It is a great effort in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. This is a fabulous set of Baroli from brothers Roberto and Franco Massolino. The wines capture the essence of the vintage – while not being excessively marked by the year – in the house’s classic, firm style. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentations are done in cement and the wines are aged exclusively in large, neutral casks. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

Licorice, tar and spice are the flavor themes in this red, along with sanguine and iron notes. A lean wine, with dense, chewy tannins and a tight finish. This gets juicier with aeration, just needs time. Best from 2015 through 2028. 200 cases imported. -BS

Here’s a bold and bright Barolo Riserva with the power, heft and alcohol to cut through succulent cuts of grilled sirloin steak. Aromas of cherry, vanilla and sweet spice color the background and the wine concludes with chewy, ripe tannins.——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 88