The 2012 Thalarn is a great cool-climate Syrah, reminiscent of a Northern Rhone, or rather a Syrah from Valais, with its wild, slightly rustic character. Right now it is covered by the baby fat and the aromas from the best French oak money can buy, as it’s extremely young, and needs some years to grow up. While delicious right now, it will only get better if you wait. It has a fine palate, with a silky texture and saturated, round tannins. The 2008, the first vintage from a cool year which only reached 11.3% alcohol, is sublime now, if that gives you a hint about drinking windows. Drink 2015-2022. Raul Bobet’s groundbreaking wines from the Pyrenees subzone of the Costers del Segre appellation, are produced in the village of Talarn at 1,000 meters altitude. The wines are named with Sanskrit words or after the places where grapes are grown. Nowadays most of the wines are fermented in the 12th century stone lagares from the property. It has to be seen to be believed. However, the process is not the most important thing, what is really important is that the results are superb. These are some of the most exciting new wines throughout Spain. And Bobet, the ex-Torres enquiring mind, is also responsible for the breathtaking Priorats from the Ferrer-Bobet winery, his joint venture with entrepreneur and wine nut Sergi Ferrer-Salat. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565